A paludarium is a terrarium-aquarium hybrid that combines an aquatic section (submerged or semi-submerged) with a terrestrial land area and often a canopy or misting zone above. The equipment you need covers all three zones: water filtration and heating for the aquatic portion, lighting that supports both aquatic and terrestrial plants, and humidity management for the land and aerial zones. Getting the equipment right upfront saves you from constant retrofitting and keeps your inhabitants healthy across all three environments.
This guide covers the core equipment categories, what specs to look for, specific product recommendations across budget ranges, and how paludarium equipment differs from a standard aquarium or terrarium setup. Whether you're building a simple waterfall design or a complex biotope with frogs, fish, and live plants, the same equipment principles apply.
Enclosures and Tank Selection
The enclosure is the foundation of every paludarium, and not all tanks work equally well.
Tank Type and Orientation
Standard aquariums work fine for paludariums, but they're not designed for it. They lack front-opening doors, which makes accessing the land section for plant care difficult. Purpose-built paludarium or terrarium tanks with swing-open or magnetic front doors are far more convenient.
Popular choices in this category include the Exo Terra Glass Terrarium series (available in 18x18x24 inches up to 36x18x36 inches) and the ZooMed ReptiBreeze or Naturalistic Terrarium line. The Exo Terra units include a raised bottom frame for a heating mat, front-opening doors, and a mesh top for ventilation, all of which simplify paludarium construction.
For a combined aquatic and terrestrial setup, aim for at least 20 gallons of total volume. Smaller builds are harder to stabilize environmentally. A 20-gallon tall aquarium (24x12x16 inches) with 6 to 8 inches of water and a built-up land section using Foam-it 8 or cork bark is a common starting point.
Aquatic Section Depth
Plan your water depth around your livestock. Fish-only aquatic sections can be as shallow as 4 to 6 inches and still support nano species like celestial pearl danios, rice fish, or small tetras. Planted aquatic sections with stem plants or mosses need 4 to 8 inches. If you're including amphibians that spend time submerged, 6 to 12 inches is more appropriate.
Filtration for Paludariums
Paludarium filtration handles a smaller water volume than a standard aquarium but contends with the same biological load issues. The water section is also susceptible to debris falling from the land area, which means mechanical filtration needs to be efficient.
Canister Filters
A small canister filter like the Fluval 107 (rated for up to 26 gallons, 145 GPH) or the Eheim Classic 150 (rated for up to 15 gallons, 116 GPH) works well for paludariums with 10 to 25 gallons of water. Route the inlet and outlet tubing through the enclosure walls using bulkhead fittings or simply run the tubes over the edge, keeping them hidden under substrate or behind rock work.
Canister filters are preferred in paludariums because they sit completely outside the enclosure, preserving water volume inside and keeping the visual clean.
Submersible Pumps and Waterfall Filters
A small submersible pump can power both filtration and a waterfall feature simultaneously. The Zoo Med 501 Turtle Filter (works up to 30 gallons) and the Aquatop Submersible Pump with sponge pre-filter are compact options that fit inside narrow aquatic sections.
For true waterfall effect, pump the water up to the land section and let it fall back into the aquatic zone naturally. This also contributes to oxygenation. A flow rate of 2 to 4 times the water volume per hour is adequate for small paludariums.
Sponge Filters
For very small aquatic sections (under 10 gallons), a simple sponge filter powered by an air pump is often sufficient. The Hikari bacto-surge sponge filter paired with a small Tetra Whisper air pump costs less than $20 combined and does a reasonable job of biological filtration in a lightly stocked nano aquatic section.
Lighting for All Three Zones
Lighting in a paludarium has to satisfy aquatic plants, terrestrial plants, and sometimes the animals themselves. This is where paludarium lighting gets genuinely complicated.
Full-Spectrum LED Lighting
Full-spectrum LED fixtures are the standard choice because they cover the PAR range for plant growth and provide appropriate UV output for amphibians and reptiles. The Fluval Plant 3.0 LED (available in 24/34 inch and 36/46 inch sizes) sits on top of the enclosure and delivers 95W of full-spectrum light with excellent PAR output at moderate depths.
For enclosures with mesh tops, the NICREW HyperReef or the Hygger Horizon 30W LED fit well. For deeper enclosures with glass tops, suspended pendant lights like the Kessil A160 Tuna Sun ($200 to $220) provide excellent full-spectrum output and adjust color temperature.
UVB Lighting for Animals
If your paludarium houses reptiles or amphibians that need UVB for vitamin D3 synthesis, add a dedicated UVB tube alongside your plant light. The Arcadia 6% Forest UVB T5 tube and the ZooMed Reptisun 5.0 T5 HO are the standard recommendations for forest-dwelling species. Mount them inside a reflector hood positioned over the land section.
UVB bulbs need replacement every 6 to 12 months even if they still produce visible light, because the UVB output degrades before the visible spectrum does.
Light Schedule
Set plant and UVB lighting on a timer with a 10 to 12-hour photoperiod. Aquatic plants and terrestrial tropicals respond well to this schedule. Avoid running lights longer than 14 hours as it can trigger algae overgrowth in the aquatic section.
Misting and Humidity Control
The aerial and terrestrial zones need consistent humidity to keep plants and animals healthy. For tropical paludariums, relative humidity in the land section should stay between 70% and 90%.
Automatic Misters
Automatic misting systems like the Exo Terra Monsoon RS400 or the Mist King Starter System run on a timer and deliver fine water mist through nozzles mounted inside the enclosure. The Mist King system is more customizable and reliable for serious builds, running around $120 to $160 for a complete setup. The Exo Terra Monsoon is simpler and costs $60 to $80.
Program misting to run 30 to 60 seconds twice daily, or more frequently if you're keeping species that require very high humidity. Use RO or distilled water to prevent mineral buildup on glass and leaves.
Manual Misting
For small or simple builds, manual misting with a garden sprayer works fine. A 1-liter pump sprayer costs a few dollars and gives you direct control. The downside is consistency, it's easy to forget and humidity levels can swing significantly if you miss a day.
Hygrometers
Digital hygrometers are inexpensive ($10 to $20) and essential. The Govee Temperature and Humidity Sensor connects via Bluetooth and lets you monitor humidity on your phone. The Inkbird IBS-TH2 is a good budget alternative. Place one sensor in the land section and one at the water surface to understand the full humidity gradient.
Heating for Water and Air
Paludariums need two separate heating considerations: the water temperature and the ambient air temperature in the enclosure.
Aquatic Heaters
A standard submersible aquarium heater handles the water section. For small volumes of 5 to 15 gallons, the Eheim Jager 50W or the Aqueon Pro 50W are compact and reliable choices. Place the heater in the deepest part of the aquatic section for even heat distribution.
For tanks with very shallow water sections (under 4 inches), standard vertical heaters don't fit properly. Use a flat submersible heater like the Fluval M50 or a titanium inline heater connected to your canister filter's output.
Ambient Air Heating
In cooler climates or rooms that drop below 68°F at night, you may need supplemental heat for the land section. A low-wattage ceramic heat emitter (CHE) on a thermostat works well because it produces heat without light. The Vivosun Digital Heat Mat Thermostat or the Herpstat Simplest thermostat can control a CHE accurately to within 1 to 2 degrees.
Substrate and Hardscape
These aren't strictly equipment but they're part of the setup decision tree and affect how your other equipment performs.
For the aquatic section, fine sand or a specialized aqua soil like ADA Aqua Soil Amazonia (2-liter bag covers roughly 12x12 inches at 2-inch depth) works for planted zones. Bare bottom is fine for animal-only sections.
For the land section, a drainage layer using LECA (lightweight expanded clay aggregate) under the substrate prevents root rot. Fill the land area with a mix of organic potting soil, coconut coir, and sphagnum moss. The Josh's Frogs Bio Dude Terra Firma substrate is a ready-mixed option that eliminates the guesswork.
For a look at how paludarium equipment compares to standard aquarium setups, our guide to Best Aquarium Equipment and Top Aquarium Equipment cover the full range of filtration, heating, and lighting options used across both setups.
FAQ
What fish can live in a paludarium? Small, surface-dwelling, or hardy species work best. Celestial pearl danios, endlers livebearers, rice fish (Oryzias sp.), ember tetras, and nano rasboras all do well in shallow aquatic sections. Avoid species that need deep water or high dissolved oxygen without supplemental aeration.
How do I prevent the land section from flooding? Design the land section at least 2 to 3 inches above the water line, and use expanding foam or rigid foam board sealed with aquarium-safe silicone to create a physical barrier. Add a thin layer of silicone-sealed gravel along the border for extra protection.
Do I need a separate filter for the terrestrial section? No. The land section doesn't need active filtration. Microbial life in the substrate naturally processes waste from animals living on land. The aquatic filter handles waterborne waste. The two zones function independently in this regard.
How large should a paludarium be for dart frogs? Dart frogs need a minimum of 18x18x24 inches (a standard Exo Terra medium tall enclosure) for a pair. Larger is always better. A 30x18x30 or 36x18x36 enclosure comfortably houses a small group and allows for more plantscaping room, which dart frogs use actively.
Putting It Together
Paludarium equipment isn't exotic, it's mostly standard aquarium and terrarium gear used in combination. Start with a quality enclosure sized for your target inhabitants, choose a canister or submersible filter matched to your water volume, add full-spectrum lighting with UVB if needed, and set up an automatic misting system early in the build. The combination of careful planning and equipment matched to your specific design will produce a stable environment that requires minimal intervention once established.