To run a successful planted aquarium, you need four things working together: adequate light, CO2 (either injected or from fish respiration), nutrients in the water and substrate, and good water circulation. Everything beyond that is refinement. The specific supplies you need depend on which plants you're growing and how intensive you want your setup to be.
This guide covers every category of planted aquarium supplies, from the bare minimum to keep low-light plants alive, to the full setup needed for a high-tech Dutch or Iwagumi aquascape. I'll tell you what to buy, what to skip, and what prices to expect at each level.
Lighting for Planted Tanks
Light is the single most important variable in a planted aquarium. Insufficient light means plants stop growing and algae takes over. Too much light without enough CO2 and nutrients causes the same problem in the other direction.
Low-Tech Lighting (Low to Medium Light Plants)
For java fern, anubias, cryptocoryne, and moss, you need a PAR (photosynthetically active radiation) value of roughly 20 to 50 micromoles at the substrate level. Most standard aquarium LED hoods fall in this range. The Nicrew ClassicLED Plus, which runs around $30 to $50, delivers adequate light for a 20 to 36-inch tank with low-demand plants.
The Fluval Aquasky LED is another good option. It has programmable intensity and color temperature, costs around $40 to $80 depending on length, and provides enough output for most beginner planted setups.
High-Tech Lighting (Medium to High Light Plants)
For stem plants, carpeting plants like Hemianthus callitrichoides (HC Cuba), and plants with high photosynthetic demand, you need PAR values above 80 at the substrate. The Fluval Plant 3.0 and the Chihiros WRGB II are the most commonly recommended in this category. The Plant 3.0 runs $60 to $120 depending on size and has excellent spectrum tuning for plant growth. The Chihiros costs similar but has a programmable sunrise and sunset cycle built in.
Run lights 8 hours per day for low-tech tanks and 6 to 8 hours for high-tech. Longer photoperiods without CO2 always lead to algae problems.
CO2 Systems
CO2 is the limiting factor for plant growth in most tanks. Air contains about 0.04% CO2. Plants in an aquarium quickly deplete dissolved CO2 to near-zero without supplementation. Adding CO2 can increase plant growth rates 3 to 5 times compared to non-injected tanks.
DIY CO2 (Budget Option)
A DIY yeast CO2 system costs about $10 to $20 and involves a plastic bottle with a yeast, sugar, and water mixture connected to a diffuser via airline tubing. Output is inconsistent and there's no way to turn it off at night (you should stop CO2 during lights-off hours to prevent pH swings). It works for small tanks under 20 gallons and for hobbyists who want to try CO2 without a large investment.
Pressurized CO2 Systems
A pressurized system uses a CO2 cylinder (either refillable aluminum or disposable 20g cartridges), a dual-stage regulator, a solenoid, a bubble counter, a diffuser, and a drop checker. This is the professional approach and what most serious planted tank hobbyists use.
The Aquatek CO2 Regulator is a reliable budget regulator that runs around $50 to $80 and works with both disposable cartridges and standard paintball-thread cylinders. For a more robust setup, the GLA (Green Leaf Aquariums) Pro or the Fluval CO2 Pressurized 95g Kit are popular choices.
A 5-lb aluminum CO2 cylinder lasts 4 to 8 months in a 40-gallon tank running at 2 bubbles per second. Refills cost $15 to $30 at local welding supply shops or homebrew stores, which are almost always cheaper than aquarium retailers.
Target CO2 levels of 25 to 30 ppm, which corresponds to a drop checker color of yellow-green to lime green.
Fertilizers and Nutrient Management
Plants need macronutrients (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium) and micronutrients (iron, magnesium, boron, and others). In a low-tech tank with a nutrient-rich substrate, fertilization needs are minimal. In a high-tech tank with inert substrate and fast-growing plants, you'll need to dose regularly.
All-in-One Liquid Fertilizers
For most planted tanks, an all-in-one fertilizer covers both macro and micro needs. Aquarium Co-Op Easy Green is one of the best options available. It contains nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, and a full micronutrient package. Dose 1 pump per 10 gallons once per week in a low-tech tank, more frequently in high-tech setups. A 500ml bottle runs about $16 and lasts months for a typical tank.
Seachem Flourish is the other widely used option. It's primarily micronutrients, so you'd need to supplement macros separately with Seachem Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium, which makes it more complex and potentially more expensive if you buy all three separately.
For a deeper look at fertilization and other plant care products, the Best Aquarium Equipment guide covers what experienced planted tank hobbyists actually use day to day.
Substrate Fertilizers
Root tabs provide nutrients directly to plant roots and are especially useful for root-feeding plants like cryptocoryne, swords, and vallisneria. Seachem Flourish Tabs and NilocG Thrive Caps are two reliable options. Push one tab into the substrate every 6 inches around root-feeding plants and replace every 3 to 4 months.
Substrate Options
The substrate affects plant health, water chemistry, and the overall look of the tank. For planted tanks, not all substrates are equal.
Aqua Soil (Buffering Substrates)
ADA Amazonia Aqua Soil is the gold standard and the preferred substrate for demanding plants and shrimp. It's nutrient-rich, lowers pH to around 6.5 to 7.0, and has a soft texture that encourages root growth. It costs more, around $25 to $50 for a 9-liter bag, but plants establish faster and grow more vigorously in it.
Fluval Stratum is a similar volcanic substrate that buffers pH downward, contains trace minerals, and is safe for shrimp. It's slightly cheaper than ADA at $20 to $35 per bag.
Inert Substrates
Plain gravel and pool filter sand don't contribute nutrients but are cheaper and require less maintenance. With regular fertilization and root tabs, most plants do fine. If you're keeping plants that don't demand pristine water parameters, like java fern, anubias, or hornwort, an inert substrate is perfectly adequate.
Circulation and Flow
Good water flow prevents dead spots where CO2 and nutrients don't reach the plants. In a planted tank, flow also distributes CO2 from the diffuser throughout the tank.
A canister filter like the Fluval 207 or Eheim Classic 250 is ideal because it allows for external CO2 injection directly into the intake. An additional powerhead or wave maker on the opposite end of the tank ensures full circulation. For tanks over 40 gallons, aim for total flow of 5 to 10 times the tank volume per hour.
For a complete list of equipment that pairs well with planted tanks, see the Top Aquarium Equipment guide.
Algae Control Supplies
Algae is the planted tank hobbyist's constant companion. Most algae problems come from imbalances between light, CO2, and nutrients. The solution is usually adjusting one of those three variables rather than buying algaecide.
That said, a few tools help manage algae mechanically. A stainless steel algae scraper or glass scraper removes spot algae from the viewing pane. A long-handled toothbrush (dedicated to the tank) removes hair algae from plants and hardscape. SAE fish (Crossocheilus oblongus) eat brush algae, and amano shrimp eat hair algae and general surface algae.
Seachem Excel is a liquid carbon supplement that can be used as a spot treatment for black beard algae. Apply it directly to affected areas using a syringe, turn off the filter for 10 minutes, and the algae will turn red and die within a week.
FAQ
Can I run a planted tank without CO2 injection? Yes, and many beautiful tanks exist without it. Low-tech planted tanks with slow-growing plants like anubias, java fern, cryptocoryne, and mosses do well with just liquid fertilizer and adequate light. You'll just grow fewer demanding stem plants and carpeting plants, which require high CO2 to thrive.
What's the cheapest way to start a planted tank? Start with a standard LED hood, a bag of inert gravel or pool filter sand, a few java fern and anubias plants (which attach to wood and rocks, not substrate), a bottle of Easy Green, and your existing filter. You can have a healthy planted tank for well under $100 in additional supplies over a basic fish-only setup.
Do planted tanks need a special filter? Not exactly, but canister filters are preferred because they create less surface agitation than hang-on-back filters. Surface agitation drives CO2 out of the water, which counteracts your CO2 injection. A canister filter keeps the surface relatively calm, which helps CO2 stay dissolved longer.
How do I know if my plants are getting enough light? Healthy plants grow visibly within days to weeks. If plants are melting, losing color, or not putting out new leaves after a few weeks, light is the first thing to check. Hold a PAR meter (you can often borrow one from local aquarium clubs) over the substrate and aim for at least 20 micromoles for low-light species, and 80 or more for high-light plants.
The Bottom Line
A successful planted aquarium comes down to balancing three variables: light, CO2, and nutrients. You don't need to spend a lot to grow beautiful plants. Start with low-light species, a decent LED, and a bottle of all-in-one fertilizer, and expand from there once you understand how your particular setup behaves. The expensive gear matters when you're growing demanding plants, not when you're starting out.