The supplies you need for a reef aquarium go well beyond what a standard freshwater or fish-only saltwater setup requires. You need filtration that handles both mechanical waste and dissolved organics, lighting that delivers the right spectrum for coral photosynthesis, water movement that prevents detritus from settling on coral tissue, and a way to precisely test and maintain calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium alongside the usual water parameters. Getting those categories right determines whether your corals thrive or slowly decline.

This guide covers every major category of reef aquarium supplies, what to look for in each, and specific products worth considering at different budget levels.

Filtration: The Sump-Based Approach

Most reef aquariums use a sump, a secondary tank located beneath the display tank in the aquarium cabinet. Water overflows from the display into the sump, passes through filtration stages (filter sock or roller, biological media, refugium, skimmer section), and a return pump sends it back up.

The advantage over hang-on-back filters is significant: the sump handles all equipment out of the display, increases total water volume (which improves stability), and allows running a protein skimmer, refugium, and additional equipment in the same compartment.

Sump Design

Most hobbyists use an acrylic or glass sump divided into sections by baffles. A basic three-section layout includes: filter media section (filter sock or roller at the water entry point), equipment section (heater, skimmer, dosing pumps), and return pump section.

Purpose-built sumps like the Trigger Systems Ruby Elite, Elos Deltec, or the budget-friendly Aqueon Evolve sumps simplify setup with pre-made baffle arrangements. For a 55-75 gallon display, a 20-30 gallon sump is typical.

Protein Skimmer

The protein skimmer is one of the most important pieces of equipment in a reef. It removes dissolved organic carbon before it breaks down into ammonia and fuels nuisance algae. A skimmer pulls aquarium water into a reaction chamber, creates dense fine bubbles, and dissolved organics stick to the bubble surface, concentrating in a collection cup as dark, protein-rich skimmate.

In SPS-dominated reefs where nitrate and phosphate need to stay near zero, a well-sized skimmer is the primary nutrient export tool.

Sizing guidelines by total system water volume (tank plus sump):

  • Under 50 gallons: Reef Octopus Classic 100, Bubble Magus Curve 5
  • 50-100 gallons: Reef Octopus Classic 110SSS, Aqua Maxx HOB-1.5
  • 100-180 gallons: Bubble Magus Curve 7, Reef Octopus Regal 150SSS

The Reef Octopus Regal series consistently gets strong reviews for build quality and skimming efficiency. The Bubble Magus Curve series offers comparable performance at a lower price and is a good choice for mixed reef and LPS-focused tanks where lower nutrient export demands are acceptable.

Lighting

Coral growth and color depend on both the intensity and spectrum of light reaching each coral. Blue wavelengths (420-450nm) drive photosynthesis in zooxanthellae, the symbiotic algae living inside coral tissue. Full-spectrum white light fills out the visible appearance.

Coral Lighting Requirements

  • Soft corals: 50-100 PAR. Mushrooms, zoanthids, leathers, and pulsing xenia thrive here. Most beginner-friendly LED fixtures cover this range.
  • LPS corals: 75-150 PAR. Brain corals, hammers, torches, frogspawn, and elegance corals.
  • SPS corals: 150-350 PAR at coral placement. Acropora and stylophora, in particular, are light-demanding and need high-output fixtures.

The AI Hydra 26 HD is a strong choice for tanks up to 36" wide and represents the mid-range sweet spot. Fully programmable RGBWAB channels, ramp-up and ramp-down scheduling via the AI app, and solid PAR output make it suitable for mixed reef and moderate SPS keeping.

The Kessil A360X Tuna Blue is preferred by many SPS keepers for its single-point high-intensity output, which creates the shimmering caustic light patterns associated with good coral color. Coverage area is smaller than the Hydra per fixture, but two A360X units over a 48" display provide excellent coverage.

The Radion XR15 Pro by EcoTech Marine is the premium option, with the most sophisticated spectrum control available. The Reef Build Schedule feature recreates seasonal changes in spectrum and intensity, and the build quality is exceptional. Price reflects this.

For tighter budgets, the Kessil A160WE handles smaller tanks (under 24" wide) at a much lower price than the A360X.

Water Movement

Corals require consistent, varied water flow to deliver nutrients, remove metabolic waste from coral tissue, and prevent detritus accumulation on and around coral heads. Flow requirements differ by coral type.

Soft corals and LPS do best with gentler, alternating flow that avoids direct blasting. SPS corals want high, turbulent, random flow that mimics ocean surge conditions.

EcoTech Marine MP40 and MP10: The most widely recommended wavemakers in serious reef keeping. Wireless magnetically mounted propellers, multiple programmable modes (Reef Crest, Lagoon, Random Nutrient Transport, Tidal Swell), extremely quiet, compatible with the Apex and other controller systems. Expensive but proven reliable over many years.

Jebao SLW-20 or SLW-30: Budget option that covers the same flow ranges at a fraction of EcoTech's price. Less programmability, shorter expected lifespan, but functional for the budget-conscious setup.

Tunze Turbelle nanoStream 6055: Strong mid-range option with excellent build quality and quiet operation. Adjustable mounting arm and good flow control.

For total flow calculation: aim for 20-30x tank volume per hour for a mixed reef, 30-50x for SPS-heavy tanks. A 60-gallon display should see 1,200-3,600 GPH of combined wavemaker flow.

Water Chemistry and Testing

This is where reef aquariums differ most dramatically from other types. In addition to ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and pH, you need to monitor and maintain:

Alkalinity (dKH): 8-10 for mixed reef, 9-11 for SPS. Low alk causes coral tissue recession; swings of more than 0.5 dKH per day stress stony corals.

Calcium: 400-450 ppm. Corals use calcium and alkalinity together to build skeleton.

Magnesium: 1,250-1,350 ppm. Magnesium stabilizes calcium and alkalinity. Low magnesium causes both to fall despite dosing.

Phosphate: Under 0.10 ppm for mixed reef, ideally under 0.05 ppm for SPS.

Salinity: 35 ppt / 1.025-1.026 SG.

For testing, the Salifert test kits are the standard for accuracy without laboratory equipment. The Hanna Instruments Checker HI758 is preferred for phosphate testing because it measures at very low concentrations that standard test kits can't reliably detect.

For maintaining calcium and alkalinity, BRS Two-Part (alk and calcium solutions) is the most popular method for tanks with moderate coral growth. As coral mass grows and consumes these elements faster, a calcium reactor (Geo Reef 618 or Caribou Sea Calcium Reactor) becomes more economical.

Our best RODI unit for reef tank guide covers how to make purified water for top-off and salt mixing, which is the foundation for stable chemistry. The best UV sterilizer for reef tank article covers how to use UV sterilization carefully in a reef environment without disrupting beneficial microorganism populations.

Heater and Temperature Stability

Most mixed reef corals prefer 76-78°F. SPS corals are sensitive to temperatures above 80-82°F, which can trigger bleaching. Stability matters as much as the target temperature: swings of more than 2°F per day stress stony corals.

Place the heater in the sump, not the display. This keeps it out of sight, reduces risk of a broken heater injuring fish or coral in the display, and keeps heating equipment in an accessible location for maintenance.

The Cobalt Aquatics Neo-Therm Pro and Eheim Jager are the most trusted heaters in reef keeping. Both have accurate thermostats and shatterproof designs. For added protection, run the heater through an Inkbird ITC-308 temperature controller, which acts as an independent shutoff if the heater's internal thermostat fails.

RODI Water System

Tap water contains chloramine, phosphate, silicate, nitrate, and dissolved minerals that compromise reef water chemistry and fuel nuisance algae. A reverse osmosis/deionization (RODI) system produces near-pure water (0-2 TDS) suitable for top-off and salt mixing.

The BRS 4-Stage or 5-Stage RODI system is the most commonly recommended entry-level unit. The 4-stage version handles most municipal water supplies adequately. If your source water has TDS above 300, the 5-stage version with dual DI resin provides a more consistent 0 TDS output.

FAQ

Do I need a refugium for a reef tank? Not mandatory, but beneficial. A refugium is a section of the sump or a separate tank where macroalgae like chaeto grows, consuming nitrate and phosphate. It also provides a safe zone for copepods to reproduce, which benefits fish and coral. Many reef keepers consider it the cleanest way to manage nutrients over the long term.

What salt should I use for a reef tank? Reef-grade salts like Red Sea Coral Pro, Brightwell Aquatics NeoMarine, and Tropic Marin Pro Reef have calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium levels formulated for coral tank requirements. Standard marine salts like Instant Ocean are suitable for fish-only setups but have lower calcium and alkalinity than reef-grade options.

How long does it take to cycle a reef tank? Using live rock or established biological media, a reef tank can cycle in 2-4 weeks. Using dry rock with ammonia dosing and bottled bacteria, 4-8 weeks is typical. Don't add corals until ammonia and nitrite both read zero consistently for at least 5-7 consecutive days.

Can I run a reef without a sump? Yes. All-in-one tanks like the Red Sea MAX Nano, Innovative Marine Nuvo Fusion, and Waterbox Cube series have integrated rear filter chambers that accommodate skimmers, heaters, media, and a return pump without a separate sump. These work well for smaller mixed reef setups under 50 gallons.

The Priorities That Matter Most

The biggest factor in reef success isn't any individual piece of equipment. It's stability: stable temperature, stable alkalinity, stable salinity, and consistent lighting schedules. The supplies that enable stability, RODI water, accurate testing, and reliable heaters and dosing equipment, matter more in practice than the most expensive lighting or skimmer. Build the stability foundation first, then refine with premium equipment as the tank matures.