Setting up a saltwater tank requires more specialized equipment than a freshwater setup, but the list of supplies you actually need is shorter than most beginners expect. At minimum, you need a tank, a reliable protein skimmer, a circulation pump, a heater, live rock or a biological filter, lighting appropriate to what you're keeping, a refractometer or salinity tester, and a salt mix. Everything else is either optional, niche-specific, or something you add later as the tank matures.

This guide breaks down the supply list by category, explains what each item does, and gives you specific product examples and realistic price ranges so you know what you're buying before you spend money.

The Tank and Stand

Saltwater tanks come in standard glass versions and rimless low-iron glass (often called "starfire" or "ultra-clear"). Low-iron glass transmits more light and looks cleaner, but costs 30-50% more. For a first saltwater setup, standard glass is fine.

The most common starter sizes are 30 to 75 gallons. Tanks under 20 gallons are genuinely difficult to keep stable because small water volumes swing in chemistry faster than larger ones. A 40-gallon breeder (36" x 18" x 16") is a popular first reef tank because the footprint is manageable and the depth works well for most corals.

Drilling the tank for a sump overflow is worth considering from the start. Overflow boxes (hang-on style) work but drilled tanks with internal overflows are more reliable and quieter. Brands like Innovative Marine (Nuvo series), Red Sea (Reefer series), and Waterbox offer complete reef-ready systems that include the tank, sump, and plumbing for $500 to $2,000 depending on size.

The stand needs to hold roughly 10 pounds per gallon of water plus the tank weight and rock. A 75-gallon tank with rock and equipment weighs around 900 pounds. Verify your stand rating before you fill it.

Filtration: Protein Skimmer and Sump

A protein skimmer is the single most important piece of filtration equipment in a saltwater tank. It removes dissolved organic compounds (DOCs) from the water before they break down into ammonia and nitrate, by creating a column of fine bubbles that stick to proteins and lift them out of the water as skimmate. Good skimmers should produce a dark, coffee-colored collection cup output, not clear water.

Skimmer sizing matters. For a 75-gallon reef, a skimmer rated for 100-150 gallons gives you headroom. Well-regarded models include the Reef Octopus Classic 110-SSS (rated to 110 gallons, around $180), the Bubble Magus Curve A5 (rated to 132 gallons, around $130), and the Nyos Quantum 120 (rated to 265 gallons, around $300 for serious setups).

A sump sits in the cabinet below the main tank, connected via an overflow and return pump. It hides equipment, adds water volume for stability, and gives you space for a refugium (a section where you grow macroalgae like Chaeto to consume nutrients naturally). A 20-gallon tank converted with baffles works as a sump, or you can buy purpose-built sumps from Trigger Systems or Eshopps.

The return pump moves water from the sump back to the display tank. Size it for 5 to 10 times your tank volume per hour. A Syncra Silent 4.0 (1050 GPH) or an Ecotech Marine Vectra M1 works well for tanks in the 50-100 gallon range.

Circulation and Flow

Marine tanks need strong water movement, especially reef tanks where corals require flow to receive food and remove waste. Target 20 to 40 times the tank volume per hour in total circulation when combining your return pump and powerheads.

For a 75-gallon reef, you want roughly 1,500 to 3,000 GPH of total flow. Two Jebao SLW-20 powerheads (around $35 each) mounted on opposite sides of the tank can deliver this. Higher-end options like the Ecotech Marine MP40 ($350) offer wave mode programming and ramp schedules, which more closely mimics natural tidal patterns.

Position powerheads so they create a random, turbulent flow pattern rather than a direct current that hits one spot. Dead spots with no flow accumulate detritus and can develop hydrogen sulfide pockets in sand beds.

Heating and Temperature Control

Saltwater tanks run between 76°F and 82°F for most fish-only setups. Reef tanks with SPS corals tend to run 77°F to 79°F more precisely because temperature swings stress coral tissue. A swing of more than 2°F in a day causes stress.

For heaters, the Eheim Jager TruTemp series has earned consistent reliability over many years. A 200-watt Jager handles tanks up to 65 gallons; use two 150-watt units (one as a backup) for 75-gallon and larger tanks. Inkbird ITC-306 temperature controllers add an extra layer of safety by cutting power to the heater if it malfunctions and overshoots your set temperature.

Reef tanks in warmer climates may need a chiller to prevent temperature from climbing too high in summer. Small chillers like the JBJ Arctica 1/10 HP handle tanks up to 40-50 gallons and run around $300.

Lighting

Lighting requirements depend entirely on what you plan to keep.

Fish-Only and FOWLR Tanks

Fish-only with live rock (FOWLR) setups just need enough light to see the fish and grow some coralline algae. Basic LED strips like the Nicrew ClassicLED Gen 2 (around $30 for a 48" version) are perfectly adequate.

Reef Tanks with Soft Corals and LPS

Soft corals (mushrooms, leather corals, zoanthids) and large polyp stony (LPS) corals like hammers and torches can thrive under moderate lighting. The Kessil A160WE Tuna Blue ($250) or the AI Prime 16HD ($199) provide enough intensity and the right color spectrum.

SPS-Dominant Reef Tanks

Small polyp stony (SPS) corals like Acropora need intense, high-quality light. The Radion XR30 G5 Blue ($600) or the Kessil A360X ($500) are industry standards here. Budget options include the Mars Aqua 165W at around $60, but SPS results will be less predictable.

You can check out the Best Aquarium Equipment roundup for a broader comparison of lighting and other equipment choices for marine setups.

Water Chemistry Supplies

Saltwater chemistry requires monitoring and regular dosing. The essentials:

Salt mix: Instant Ocean Reef Crystals ($35 for 50 gallons) is widely used for reef tanks. Red Sea Coral Pro Salt ($75 for 50 gallons) has higher alkalinity and magnesium, which is better for SPS-heavy tanks.

Refractometer: A basic refractometer ($15-25) measures salinity by bending light through a water sample. Calibrate it monthly with a 35 ppt calibration solution. Target 1.025-1.026 specific gravity for reef tanks.

Test kits: API Saltwater Master Test Kit covers ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and pH. For a reef tank, add separate tests for alkalinity (dKH), calcium (target 380-450 ppm), and magnesium (target 1250-1350 ppm). Salifert and Red Sea test kits are reliable.

RO/DI water: Tap water contains chloramine, phosphates, and silicates that feed algae and harm corals. A 4-stage RO/DI unit like the Spectrapure MaxCap ($200) or the Aquaticlife Twist-In 4-Stage ($150) produces nearly pure water. Budget around $0.10 per gallon for filter replacements.

Two-part dosing or calcium reactor: For reef tanks, you need to replenish calcium and alkalinity as corals consume them. Two-part dosing (BRS 2-Part is popular, about $25 for a starter kit) is simple and works well for lighter coral loads. A calcium reactor recirculates tank water through calcium carbonate media to dissolve minerals continuously, which is more cost-effective at higher coral densities but requires a CO2 cylinder.

Live Rock and Sand

Live rock seeds your biological filtration. You need roughly 1 to 1.5 pounds of porous rock per gallon, though modern aquascaping favors less rock with better quality and flow. Fiji branch rock, Marco Rocks dry base rock, or Real Reef cultured live rock are popular options. Dry rock is cheaper ($2-4/lb) and comes pest-free; natural live rock costs $5-10/lb but introduces coralline algae, microfauna, and a faster cycle.

Sand depth matters depending on your goal. A shallow bed (1-2 inches) is easy to clean and doesn't accumulate hydrogen sulfide. A deep sand bed (4-6 inches) develops anaerobic zones that can help denitrify the water but requires careful maintenance to avoid crashing.

The Top Aquarium Equipment guide includes recommendations on rock and substrate for both beginner and advanced reef setups.

Maintenance Supplies

Ongoing maintenance requires a few tools you'll use regularly:

  • Magnet algae scrapers: Two Little Fishies Mag-Float 350 ($25) for glass tanks, a razorblade scraper for coralline
  • Turkey baster: For blowing detritus off rocks before water changes, around $5
  • Gravel vacuum/siphon: Python No-Spill Clean and Fill system is popular for water changes on large tanks
  • Buckets and mixing containers: Dedicated for saltwater use only; 5-gallon buckets and a Brute 20-gallon trash can with a pump handle larger water changes efficiently
  • Airline tubing and check valves: For drip acclimating new fish and corals
  • Aquarium-safe glue: Reef-safe super glue gel (cyanoacrylate) for fragging and mounting corals

FAQ

How much does it cost to set up a saltwater tank? A basic 55-gallon FOWLR setup runs $500-800 for equipment plus rock and livestock. A 75-gallon reef tank with decent lighting, a skimmer, and a sump typically costs $1,200-2,000 to set up before buying fish and corals. The premium items that drive cost up are lighting and a quality protein skimmer.

Do I need a protein skimmer for a fish-only tank? You can manage without one on small, lightly stocked fish-only tanks if you do frequent water changes (25% weekly). On tanks 40 gallons and larger with more than 3-4 fish, a skimmer makes water quality maintenance much more manageable and reduces the frequency of water changes.

How long does it take to cycle a new saltwater tank? A typical nitrogen cycle takes 4 to 8 weeks from adding ammonia to having stable zero ammonia and zero nitrite readings. Using live rock and seeding with bottled bacteria (Brightwell Aquatics MicroBacter7 or Dr. Tim's One and Only) can cut this to 2 to 3 weeks. Don't add fish until your cycle is complete and you have at least two consecutive days of zero ammonia and nitrite readings.

Can I use tap water for a saltwater tank? Technically yes, but the chloramine, phosphates, and silicates in tap water create algae problems and can harm corals. RO/DI water is strongly recommended for reef tanks and is better practice for fish-only tanks too. Many fish stores sell RO/DI water for $0.25-0.50 per gallon if you don't want to buy your own unit.